1-Day St Birinus Way to Dorchester-on-Thames with Phoebe Smith

Join adventurer, Wayfarer author and ‘Wander Woman’ Phoebe Smith on a route that she loves, wandering across Oxfordshire’s ancient chalkland to Dorchester Abbey.

10 miles, moderate

The pilgrimage begins at Churn Knob, a small bronze age tumulus where St Birinus preached in 634AD. He was the first Bishop of Dorchester and was known as the "Apostle to the West Saxons" for his conversion of the Kingdom of Wessex to Christianity. With such a view before him, it must have felt like he was preaching to half of southern England.

Along the way we visit two historic churches, meander across an old hill-fort, then enjoy some barefoot grounding and poetry on the top of Wittenham Clumps - for our Monte do Gozo moment (where we can see our journey’s end in the distance). These two impressive hills are individually known as Castle Hill and Round Hill. But today, they are best known as the ‘Clumps’, after the clump of beech trees that crown the hills, including the famous Victorian Poem Tree which once stood here. Legend has it they also hold the power to capture a cuckoo and ensure an endless summer.

The journey concludes with a meander alongside the River Thames to reach Dorchester Abbey, a place of pilgrimage for many centuries, now used for many community events - nothing religious and secular. We will explore its 14th century wall paintings and restored shrine to St Birinus and reflect on the footsteps we have taken to get here, and how we continue at journey’s end

About your guide

Phoebe is passionate about using adventure to help others. She is president of the Long Distance Walkers Association and co-founder of the #WeTwo Foundation (a charity that works with di

sadvantaged 16-19-year-olds), a multi-award-winning travel writer, broadcaster, host of the Wander Woman Podcast, and author of 11 books, with her recent one, Wayfarer: Love, Loss and Life on Britain’s Ancient Paths (Shortlisted for the Edward Stanford Travel Book of the Year 2025) charting her journey to overcome past traumas through walking multiple pilgrim paths in Britain as a non-religious soul.

Travel arrangements - Nearest train stations are: Didcot and Cholsbury.  There is a free car park in Blewsbury on Boham's Road near the recreation ground. We will coordinate lift/taxi shares via WhatsApp group for those that need to transfer from Didcot to Blewsbury for the start, and from Dorchester to Didcot or Blewsbury at the end. 

Toilet Facilities - There toilets at the beginning, middle and end of this journey. Please bring anything you might need for calls of nature between these. 

Who can come? Anyone over 18 (or under 18 with parental guidance, bearing in mind the walking distance).

Is this religious? This is a faith-neutral pilgrimage including a variety of traditions and practices. We operate a “Bring Your Own Beliefs” policy, where pilgrims can choose when to engage and participate. We ask that all pilgrims respect one another, whatever their beliefs.

Will I be asked to share my feelings with the group? We like to keep things light and breezy, so there will be no group emotional sharing moments, even though people may be coming for emotional reasons. If you want to share your feelings in personal conversation when walking with others that is up to you, but certainly not compulsory.

Are there fitness or access limitations? This route involves stiles, steep hills, some road walking, low light levels, and conditions may be muddy underfoot. Pilgrimage is moderately intense; if you find walking all day a challenge, this type of pilgrimage may be an unsuitable activity for you right now. Unfortunately this pilgrimage is not suited for mobility-impaired people or those requiring wheeled access due to the terrain. If you have other access needs please get in touch to discuss how we can best include your individual requirements.

Can I bring my dog? Sadly not - we can’t accommodate dogs on our guided pilgrimages. However, if you have a registered assistance dog, they are welcome.

Do you offer concessions? We offer some free or discounted places to pilgrims on certain types of income-related Universal Credit, PIP, DLA ESA , JSA etc. Contact us to find out if you qualify.

What does the price cover? This pilgrimage is a fundraiser for registered charity British Pilgrimage Trust. 20% of the ticket fee is VAT. 10% of funds raised are donated to the places we visit along the route. Around 50% of your ticket covers the costs of providing the journey, including guide fees and transaction fees etc. Any remaining funds support our charitable work including thousands for free resources to enable people to make their own journeys. For more details about our charitable activities, please check here.

What is your refund policy? See our full policy on cancellations, postponements and ticket transfers here: https://www.britishpilgrimage.org/resources/guided-pilgrimage-refund-policy

If you would like to make a donation to support a place for someone on low income, please click here.

Photo credits:
Walking St Birinus Way - Phoebe Smith
Aerial view of Castle Hill, Wittenham Clumps - Dave Price
Poem Tree - Oxford Times
The modern glass window in Blewsbury - Phoebe Smith
Sunset from the Clumps - Phoebe Smith