Spend a week working green wood (as nature intended!) with the guidance of Elia Bizzarri and Eric Cannizzaro.

Class will begin with splitting a log section as you learn how to choose a log suitable for green woodworking. Then, you'll make a variety of projects that will teach you how to exploit the strengths and weaknesses of the wood for the best benefit. The emphasis will be on learning fundamentals that can be applied to a variety of projects, both green and dry. Project options include spoons, pitchforks, brooms, firewood carriers, tool handles, fan birds and more – student's choice, with guidance from Elia and Eric!

The class fee is $1800, which includes the wood. Cancellations will be accepted up until four weeks before the class for a full refund. If a cancellation occurs within four weeks prior to the class date, a refund will be issued only if the spot can be filled.

For information on Covington, including where to stay and where to eat, click here.

If the class sells out, we recommend signing up for the waitlist – we almost always have to fill at least one space.

Tool list (Note: You do not need all of these; the instructors will have tools to share. The notes following each are from Elia).

- Froe and Froe Club — If you must buy new I'd buy Lie-Nielsen's or Lee-Valley's but I like my old ones better. A 4" diameter club seems about right.
- Splitting Wedges: New wedges all seem to have big bevels at the edge that make it hard to start a split. A blacksmith can draw them to a point, or you can buy good ones used on eBay. Just make sure the taper of the wedge continues all the way to the point, without any secondary bevels. I have a vintage USA-made Collins wedge that works nicely. It has a label like this and they can often be found on Ebay. The new ones made in Mexico may be good too, I don't know.
- Hewing Hatchet - Can be single- or double-beveled; 2 or 3 lbs. is about right.
- Drawknife — Barr Tools and Lie-Nielsen make nice ones, but I like old ones. None of the new ones has a thin enough blade to allow the drawknife to fit into tight curves such as the seat's waist. For that, it's nice to have a blade that's 3/16" thick or so at the edge. My online class has lots of sharpening, purchasing and using info. Good old brands are too numerous to name: PS&W, Lakeshore, Witherby, Barton, etc.
- Spokeshave — 18th-century spokeshaves were wooden bodied; they are superior for endgrain and little else. In my day-to-day work, I use metal spokeshaves such as the Stanley #151 and the curved-bottom Boggs Shave from Lie-Nielsen (no need for the flat-bottomed shave; the curved bottom will work for everything).
- Marking Gauge — The duller the better; a sharp one won't leave a line on green wood.
- Hammer and Wooden Mallet
- Coping Saw
- Ball- or Cross-Pein Hammer
- 3/8" Dowel Plate
- Ruler
- Backsaw, Ripsaw, Crosscut Saw
- Bench Chisel
- Sloyd Knife
- Gouges (for spoons)
- Brace & Bits - 3/8" bit for the hay forks
- Sharpening stones and slips 
- Dividers — I like old ones, such as the ones made by ps & w.
- Card Scrapers — Learn to sharpen them here.